Karl Lagerfeld, Fashion’s Shock Jock
This is a moment of speaking out and freaking out. Today’s off-the-cuff comment is tomorrow’s outrage, and in a world where everyone is a brand, one of the weapons of choice has become the consumer boycott.
Recently Kanye West spurred calls for a boycott of Adidas, his sneaker partner, when he announced in an interview that 400 years of slavery “sounds like a choice.” When Donna Karan put her foot in it on the red carpet after the Weinstein sexual harassment revelations by wondering if women were “asking” for trouble because of how they dressed, a petition was circulated on Care2 for Nordstrom and Macy’s to drop DKNY (even though Ms. Karan had not been associated with the brand since 2015).
Calls to boycott the Ivanka Trump brand by the group #GrabYourWallet began after Donald Trump’s leaked comments about grabbing women in a sexually aggressive manner and continued after Mr. Trump became president (even though Ms. Trump had also stepped away from her brand, after the election).
Dolce & Gabbana even made it an official meta-trend by creating #BoycottDolce&Gabbana T-shirts after a movement had begun to — yes, boycott the brand thanks to its relationship with Melania Trump, the first lady.
Karl Lagerfeld, the longtime creative director of Chanel and Fendi and founder of a namesake brand, is known to be “the greatest talker in Paris since Oscar Wilde,” or so said Godfrey Deeny, the global editor of the Fashion Network. But while he can be terrifically quotable and entertaining, he also has a tendency to utter outrageous things. And lately, that type of comment seems to be escalating.
Last week, Mr. Lagerfeld gave an interview to the French newspaper Le Point in which he said he was considering renouncing his German citizenship because of the one million Muslim immigrants that Angela Merkel, the chancellor, had accepted into Germany, a decision he linked to the rise of neo-Nazism in the country.
The comment made the German newspapers, and followed similar statements Mr. Lagerfeld made last year on a French television talk show in which he said, “One cannot — even if there are decades between them — kill millions of Jews so you can bring millions of their worst enemies in their place.”
That declaration came just after Mr. Lagerfeld, an accomplished cartoonist, had drawn a sketch for the German paper Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung of Adolf Hitler thanking Chancellor Merkel for inadvertently allowing the far-right party into parliament. Which itself came before another interview, with the French magazine Numéro, in which Mr. Lagerfeld dismissed the #MeToo movement and asserted, “If you don’t want your pants pulled about, don’t become a model.”
It’s as if he’s sticking his finger in the light socket to see what will happen.
But here’s what does: not much.
There is no doubt that Mr. Lagerfeld occupies a singular space in the style universe. He is someone who has shaped the fashion industry as we know it (and our wardrobes as we know them), alongside names like Giorgio Armani and Rei Kawakubo, and is probably about as close to a living legend as exists in fashion.
A certain tolerance of idiosyncrasy goes along with that — a certain “Oh, it’s just old Uncle Fester doing his thing” — as well as fear when it comes to criticizing the power player in the room. Especially when that power player works for a brand, like Chanel, that is enshrined on a power pedestal.
Indeed, a friend who privately expressed outrage over Mr. Lagerfeld also said: “Don’t quote me, please. I don’t want to lose my fifth row seat at Chanel.” When Sara Ziff, the founder of the Model Alliance, spoke out against Mr. Lagerfeld’s comments on models, she said she received a lot of support via direct messaging from contacts — who then said they could not make their feelings public.
Still, no brand in untouchable. Last May Chanel came under fire in Australia for cultural appropriation after it created a $1,325 Chanel boomerang, and was forced to make a quasi apology, announcing “it was not our intention to disrespect the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander community.”
And just because the fashion world quivers in its stilettos at the idea of calling time, that doesn’t mean the consuming public should. Which suggests that there is something else going on, and it may have as much to do with the current cultural and political reality as the boycotts do.
Yes, I am talking about Mr. Trump.
As with the president and his tweets, Mr. Lagerfeld has been saying outrageous things so regularly for so long and with such gumption, everyone is numb to the substance. It’s almost expected; he has positioned himself as a provocateur; it’s part of his brand.
And before you can really digest one statement, he is on to the next, all of it said with enough volume and certainty to clear a way through the excess chatter in its path. (Kanye West does this, too, but doesn’t get away with it quite so often.)
We seem to be living in a weird dual reality. Just as we have become more sensitized to the experience of different social groups, we are also more inured to the growth of uncivil discourse, wherever it may originate, on Fox or in fashion.
Still, when it comes to fashion, Mr. Deeny thinks there are at least signs of change. “It was striking that after Chanel’s most recent cruise show, staff informed journalists at the after-party inside the massive cruise liner in the Grand Palais that they could ‘seulement saluer,’ or only greet, Karl and not ask him any questions,” he said, noting that this had the result of minimizing the risk of what Mr. Lagerfeld might say.
“After 25 years of meeting Karl before and after shows for WWD, Vogue Hommes, Le Figaro and now Fashion Network, I cannot remember the last time that ever happened.”
Original Posted : Nytimes
Your Guide To Wear Jewelry At The Beach
Whoever said that you can’t wear jewelry at the beach is wrong. With so many different styles and designs of beach accessories trending in the market, it is hard to keep yourself away from that collection.
You are probably concerned about your jewelry when wearing them at the beach. No worries, we have got your back. This guide will help you pick the best beach jewelry and also tell you how to take care of them. So without wasting any more time, let’s get to the details.
Don’t forget the hazards
When you are at the beach, you must be careful of all the hazards around you. By hazards, we mean sand, salt water, and sun exposure.
Sand between your toes might feel comfortable, but it’s not good for your jewelry. When the tiny grains of sand rub against your jewelry, they can cause significant damage to your pieces. On the other hand, saltwater from the sea can stain or tarnish your jewelry. Even strong sunrays are bad for your beach jewelry. It can affect the metal or dull the sparkle of your gem.
So these are some of the concerns you need to take care of. It is advised you take off your pieces before getting into the water. Plus, you should prevent your jewelry from direct sun exposure.
Keep it simple
Wearing beach jewelry like handmade pearl choker, shell bracelets, etc., is fine. But you shouldn’t overdo it. What we mean to say is that you should keep your style simple.
You go to the beach to relax or get a nice natural tan. Consider wearing small pieces so it doesn’t result in big tan lines. Also, bigger pieces tend to get stuck in your swimsuit or tangled in the air.
Go for small and lightweight jewelry pieces that are easily manageable. To get a better idea, you should check out some reference pictures on the web.
Carry a few sandwich bags
Yes, you read that right! Before diving into the water, take off your jewelry and store it in those bags. This is a good way to keep your jewelry safe. Plastic sandwich bags are reliable and waterproof.
Keeping your jewelry in a plastic bag not only keeps it safe from the elements, but also reduces the chances of you losing it in the sand. Make sure that the sandwich bag is durable enough.
Consider the metal type
When buying beach jewelry, you must also consider the metal it is made of. This is because certain metals can handle the hazards better than other types.
For example, sterling silver, pewter, and copper are likely to tarnish from contact with salt water. Better choices are platinum and gold, as they are resistant to tarnishing.
If you can follow these simple tips, you can wear and flaunt your beach jewelry without any worries. Make sure that you take good care of your pieces after wearing them to the beach. Some jewelry may require heavy cleaning after coming in contact with sand and saltwater.
Tim Gunn on Fashion, Florals and the Royal Wedding
Tim Gunn, America’s favorite fashion mentor, is best known for his work on Project Runway alongside Heidi Klum. Through his subtle wit and attention to detail, Gunn redefined the understanding and appreciation of modern fashion as we know it. On meeting him a few weeks back when he was getting ready for the Command x Gilt Pop Up Shop in New York City, I was gratified to realize that in-person, Gunn is gracious, wickedly sharp and incredibly kind. In other words, Tim Gunn personifies his catchphrase and seems to always “Make it work.”
In addition to his keen knowledge of fashion, Gunn has an almost encyclopedic knowledge of design history. He spouted architecture tidbits and design history and proudly referenced his past at Parsons School of Design where he served as associate dean before becoming Fashion Design Department chair. I’m certain I blushed fiercely when I mentioned teaching a class I developed in partnership with French luxury goods conglomerate LVMH. Gunn asked me the name of the course, and when I told him, A Short History of Beauty Culture from Cleopatra to the Kardashians, he drolly responded “Well, at least I like the first part, let’s just skip the ending.”
Gunn shared some of his thoughts on how to update your personal look and your home without breaking the bank.
Flowers everywhere: Floral patterns tend to pop up frequently during the spring, with this year being a flowery fashion bonanza. In case you’re wondering, florals go in and out of fashion for clothes, but they can be really tricky when used in home decor. “I think with interiors it’s different,” Gunn said, “because you’re living it and not just wearing it.” He referenced hyper-feminine and florally infused designer Betsey Johnson saying, “I don’t know how Betsey Johnson lives, but I would imagine it’s like her clothes. That’s got to be hard.” If you’re a die-hard floral fan, Gunn suggests using it in limited quantities and spread throughout your home instead of in high concentration in certain spots. Bedrooms and sofas could work, dining rooms—not so much.
With all this talk of florals and royal wedding mania, I was sure that the chintz and cabbage roses traditionally favored by the royal family would set off a craze on our own shores. Not so, according to Gunn. And though he covered the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton for ABC News back in 2011, he’s not really planning on binging the upcoming nuptials of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle. It’s a style thing he said, and he isn’t really expecting much of a “celebration of fashion there.”
Your home vs. your personal style: Gunn said even in the fashion industry, one can grow tired of looking at eye-catching items all day. “You’re surrounded by beauty all day and sometimes you just want to shut it off,” he said. For that reason, his own home is decorated in muted shades and neutrals. “I feel like our homes truly are like a nest, the one place where you have to feel comfortable. I have a very neutral palette to my apartment inspired by the colors of limestone. Color is having a moment, but if that’s not your thing you can achieve the same effect with artwork. And keep moving everything around your home- the furniture, the artwork, the rug that doesn’t serve you, the upholstery you never liked. Just because something has been in your family for generations doesn’t mean it will work for you. I use artwork to really bring in more palpable color.”
Get Moving: Gunn grew animated when talking about his partnership with Command, the brand better known for their sticky strips and hooks. As he explained it, you can update your home all the time by switching things around regularly. “I think color can revive you and your home,” Gunn said. “In my home it’s all the colors of my book collection. I think people don’t realize how you can change the look of things by repositioning them. I move things around as opposed to trading things out, so it always feels new.” The new invisible or decorative items in the line allow you to hang your art temporarily and keep moving it around. Gunn also artfully arranged small gold hooks that can be used as decorative in and of themselves, or more glam when hanging favorite pieces of jewelry. “I like that you can move something 3 inches to the right, or change an arrangement in a room and change everything,” he said. “But don’t just change one part of a room, because moving pictures or furniture changes the proportions of the room and the visual relationships between what’s on the wall and what’s around it.”
Decorating battles: Meanwhile, what do you do if you live with someone who has terrible taste? Do you have to let them add their zebra printed metallic table to your living room? “You pick your battles,” Gunn said. “I’m not sure there’s one right way to solve it,” he said gesturing to an extremely shiny rhinestone and metallic pillow. “Maybe you add a pillow. No, not even a pillow. Maybe you add a border–a very thin border– and leave it at that.”
P.S. I tried some of Tim’s tricks for quick spring home updates. After struggling to arrange some hooks in a vee shaped design I kind of gave up, but my walls overall look so much better!